Springfield Business Journal_2019-02-25

52 · SBJ.NET FEB. 25-MARCH 3, 2019 I t’s always great when you run into an old friend, especially if that old friend happens to be a wine. Such was the case when I re- cently sampled the latest vintages of the wines of Folie a Deux. If your high school French is not totally fractured, it trans- lates as madness for two. The Deux comes from two psychiat- ric professionals, Eve and Larry Dismang, whose interest in fine wines led them to found the winery. The madness comes from the insanity of establishing a winery. All this occurred in 1961, when land in Sonoma Coun- ty was still affordable and California wines were just coming of age. Their timing could not have been better. They’ve been fan favorites since inception. To- day, the wines of Folie a Deux are considered among the best made anywhere and are an ex- ample of what can be produced by winemak- ers who really care and are not afraid to row against the tide. Folie a Deux 2016 Sonoma County Alexander Valley Cabernet Sauvignon ($24) This wine is not only a beautiful and well-made Sonoma County cabernet sauvi- gnon, but also a contradiction of itself. This is a quality wine, but it also sells for a price far below that of other premium Califor- nia cabernet sauvignons. The aromas of this wine are those of cassis and blackberries with a hint of oak and vanilla. The flavor ac- centuates black cherry and cassis that melds with a distinctive under-flavor of oak. There is plenty of tannin in this wine, but not enough to make it uncomfortable if enjoyed young. Yet, it’s more than enough to assure the wine will continue to improve if aged for as long as 20 years. Folie a Deux 2017 Russian River Valley Chardonnay ($18) I am noted for be- ing super critical of chardonnay wines. This is mainly be- cause of the many mediocre examples of the variety I’ve tasted over the years. This wine, however, is as close to a classical chardon- nay as one can get. Here is a wine that ex- plodes with the flavors and aromas of green apples, pears and a suggestion of citrus in the background. There also is a very pleasant under-flavor of oak, which, when combined with a near perfect acid level, result in a wine of classical dimensions. The finish exhibits the much sought after buttery feel in the mouth, the sign of a better chardonnay. The Folie a Deux 2017 Russian River Valley Chardonnay also is a wine that, in my opinion, is under- priced considering its quality. Folie a Deux 2016 Sonoma County Dry Creek Valley Zinfandel ($18) The signature fruit flavors really stand out in this offering from Folie a Deux. Zinfan- del wines are rapidly becoming one of Ameri- ca’s favorite red wines. For centuries, the grape was grown in Croatia, where it never achieved much or even any notoriety. However, when grown in California, the zinfandel becomes a star. The aroma of this wine is alive with jam- my red fruits and blackberries. The dominant flavor is raspber- ry and surround- ing it are the flavors of black cherry and black currants. There also is an element of oak that adds further interest and com- plexity, along with just the right amount of tan- nin. This is the perfect wine to accompany any darker red meats and is a standout when served with heavily spiced foods. Wine columnist Bennet Bodenstein can be reached at frojhe1@att.net. A griculture is a huge part of Missouri’s economy. In fact, a 2016 economic impact study found that Mis- souri agriculture, forestry and related industries account for over $88 billion in sales every year; nearly 15 percent of the state’s total. However, to maintain and grow this economic engine, our rural infrastructure needs to be built to support modern agriculture. While $88 billion sounds large and im- pressive, many people struggle to grasp what those numbers mean in real terms and why they create such a need for infrastructure in- vestment. The ag economy is geographically dispersed, so its activity often makes less of a mental impact than big manufacturing plants or downtown skyscrapers. We can get a better understanding of the industry’s scope by looking at a modern row crop farm’s operations and its impact on our state’s infrastructure. Today, a typical Mis- souri corn farmer grows about 175 bushels of corn per acre, roughly double what was pro- duced in the 1970s. Today many farmers now haul their grain with large semi trucks, each of which can carry about 5 acres’ worth per load. Many larger Missouri grain farmers grow 2,500 acres or more of corn each year. To har- vest this corn and take it to storage bins, a farmer has to make about 500 trips with ful- ly-loaded semi trucks. They will then make an equivalent number of trips to deliver the corn to an elevator where it will be distributed to end users. A thousand fully- loaded semi trucks coming in and out of a small town – that’s a big deal.  Now vi- sualize Missouri’s statewide corn haul: with 4.1 million acres of corn grown, the equiva- lent of over 1,500 farms of the size described above each produce 1,000 trips of these ful- ly-loaded semi trucks per year; about 1.5 mil- lion trips annually, almost all on rural roads. And this only counts corn – Missouri is a huge producer of soybeans, rice, wheat, cotton and many other crops, each of which are consis- tently increasing yields year after year. Now add the Missouri livestock industry, which is about the same size as our row crop indus- try, and our large amount of forest products. Needless to say, agriculture is big and grow- ing in Missouri, and our rural roads need to be built to support it. In early February, Missouri Farm Bureau President Blake Hurst shared the importance of rural roads with the Missouri Highway Commission. He encouraged the Commission to prioritize funding for rural freight corri- dors, or “farm-to-market” roads, that carry the bulk of farm products. Prioritizing spending can help rural roads and bridges keep up with technology and modern production. Governor Parson, a lifelong farmer him- self, seems to firmly grasp the need for ru- ral infrastructure improvements. He recently proposed a plan to accelerate investment in bridge repairs and boost local input in identi- fying needs. This is a great start toward catch- ing Missouri up to the needs of 21st century agriculture, and we will continue to support even more investment in our roads and bridg- es. Eric Bohl is director of public affairs for the Missouri Farm Bureau in Columbia. He can be reached at publicaffairs@mofb.com. OPINION Missouri agriculture is growing and our rural roads need to support it. Folie a Deux wines are an example of winemakers rowing against the tide. On the Road Modern Missouri agriculture requires better infrastructure Madness a recipe for success with Folie a Deux GUEST COLUMN Eric Bohl WINE REVIEW Bennet Bodenstein